Measurement of physical state: the Ruffier test
The Ruffier test is a very simple method to measure your fitness level with good efficiency. It is a question of measuring the heart rate at three important moments of the adaptation of the heart, at rest, immediately after exercise, and then after a minute of rest. These three heart ratees are used to calculate the Ruffier index and to assess an overall fitness for effort. The pulse measurement can be done manually, but to avoid any risk of error it is better to use a heart rate monitor.
- Measuring heart rate at rest
It is necessary to take a few minutes of relaxation before measuring this frequency in order to be in real rest condition. The resulting digit will be called Fc0.
- Measurement of heart rate on exertion
It is necessary to perform 30 bends of the legs in 45 seconds. To keep a steady pace, you can rely on 2 bends every 3 seconds. Adherence to the speed of execution is important for the reliability of the test results. In addition, the feet should be separated from one another by about 20 cm, the buttocks should at the end of bending touch the heels. It is therefore a question of heel/buttock bending. The bust should remain straight, and when ascent the legs should be stretched. After the series of 30 bends, we immediately measure the heart rate which will be called Fc1.
- Heart rate measurement 1 minute after exercise
At the end of the exercise, you have to sit down and wait a minute before measuring your heart rate again. Be careful to respect the minute of rest so as not to distort the results. This measure will be called Fc2.
(Fc0 + Bc1 + Bc2 – 200) / 10 = Ruffier index
- The results
• Index < 0 = très bonne adaptation à l'effort
• 0 < indice < 5 = bonne adaptation à l'effort
• 5 < indice < 10 = adaptation à l'effort moyenne
• 10 < indice < 15 = adaptation à l'effort insuffisante
• 15 < indice = mauvaise adaptation à l'effort bilan complémentaire nécessaire
To be able to make the ascent of Mont-Blanc, it will be necessary to count on an index less than 8.
Be acclimatized and fit
The effects of altitude are always felt on an unprepared organism. At 4000 meters, you will run out of breath faster. If you can, a preparation course or the ascent of altitude peaks in the previous weeks will acclimatize your organism. Ideally, 4 to 5 days at altitude,a week before Mont Blanc and then a few days of rest before the ascent of the summit. In the case of the ascent of Kilimanjaro,you can add a day of acclimatization to your ascent, consisting of a one-day outing starting from the 3700 meters area to reach 4500 meters, and then returning to rest and sleep one night at 3700 meters, usually between the third and fourth day for 6-day expeditions. The other alternative is to extend the ascent times,up to 9 days,the success rate becoming significantly increasing to reach 85%,against 24% success for "brutal" ascents in 5 days.
Training and physical preparation
The ascents of peaks reaching or exceeding 4000 meters require at least two days of ascent,at altitude, with a backpack of several kilos. Without being a marathon runner, it is recommended to train regularly in the months preceding the ascent.
Watch the CoB video of the ascent of Mont Blanc: Idea #174: Touch the roof of Europe at 4807 meters
Watch the CoB video of the ascent of Great Paradise: Idea #55: Reaching the top of Paradise at 4061 meters
Landtraining is best suited to the mountain. This means that it is necessary to make a long effort between 2 and 4 times a week:
- Jogging: 45min to 1h30
- Bike: 1h30 to 3h
- Sports walk (with altitude differences if possible): 2h to 4h
- Swimming: 30min to 1h
You can follow the 10,000 meter training offered here,for a good preparation for the ascent.
The regularity and variety of these activities are essential. Even if you don't have time to do them on weekdays, two sessions on the weekend will already be effective. For those who practice activities such as apartment biking or rowing, the sessions must be at least 20 minutes. In this case the ideal is to do them every day.
Personal equipment
Technical equipment
- 1 classic ice axe
- crampons with anti-boots
- a pair of warm, waterproof and cramping mountaineering shoes
- a pair of gaiters or stop-all, to avoid damaging his pants with the crampons
- 1 helmet
- 2 large straps and 2 screw carabiners
- 1 backpack from 35 to 40 liters
- 1 LED headlamp with new batteries
- 1 or 2 telescopic sticks, very pleasant to relieve the long descent
- 1 shoulder harness
- 1 ice pin
- 3 screw carabiner
- 1 large strap
- 2 self-locking (for mouflage)
- a few meters of cord
For creviced routes: crevice kit: 2 mechanical or cord self-locking, each with a screw carabiner, and a rope of 7 to 10 meters.
Clothes
- 1 pair of warm socks
- 1 pair of spare hot socks
- 1 relatively warm pants and windproof
- carline type sportswear
- under spare clothing (T-shirt in particular)
- 1 polar
- 1 warm shirt long sleeves, which protects the arms
- 1 windproof jacket with hood (Gore Tex type)
- 1 pair of fine gloves (silk, or thin fleece)
- 1 pair of warm or specialized mountaineering gloves
- 1 pair of working leather gloves
- 1 cap
- 1 cap or headband
- 1 pair of category 4 glasses or a ski mask
Depending on the weather conditions forecast, the wind in particular:
- a windproof overpants type Gore Tex
- a warm down jacket
- Gore Tex over-gloves
- a hood (mountain pass) or a neoprene mask
Various
- high protection sunscreen
- labial stick
- individual first aid kit containing compeed, elastoplast, aspirin or paracetamole
- 1 survival cover
- 1 light meat bag for the night
- quies balls
- toilet paper
- wipes
- 1 toothbrush
- 1 light isothermal gourd (it is absolutely necessary to avoid that the water freezes)
- 1 opinel
- 1 waterproof bag containing identity card, insurance contract, cash,
Power
- some running food, type fruit paste and salty foods, which pass better with altitude
Rope material
Technical equipment
- 1 single rope of 50 meters minimum
- 1 canif
- 1 abalokof hook
- 1 pair of emergency goggles
- 1 second ice pin for the first of rope
- 1 mobile phone to prevent rescue
Guidance material
- Map
- altimeter, compass, GPS
Other
- waste bag